I'm going to let you in on a little secret : Surfing will RUIN your life. You're better off smoking drugs, because once you start surfing, its all you'll ever think about.

But if you're reading this, its probably too late. Sand is already in your floorboards, sheets, nose, ears, hair. You check the forecasts compulsively. You spent all your money on your quiver and you're dreaming of trips to Pasta Point, Mundaka, Skeleton Bay, Pavones, Chicama, Lance's Left, Desert Point, Cloudbreak, Teahupoʻo, Macaronis, or if you're regular, somewhere else - I don't care, I only go left.

Did you get out this last swell? How was the baja trip? Did your girlfriend dump you because you blew up at her when she didn't get that sweet cutback when she was supposed to be filming you from the beach? You got fired because you keep taking "sick days" when its firing?

Let people know before its too late - DON'T SURF